|
THE TOUR OF SICILY
2-13 May 2006
|
|
(By Warren Wilson) (photos
contributed by members)
On the 2nd May
2006, a contingent of 13 intrepid Sydney road cyclists threw caution to
the wind and set off to cycle around the coast and through the centre of
the Mediterranean island of Sicily. 12 days later they arrived back at
their start point in the north eastern town of Villafranca Tirrena
having covered 1,127 kilometres in nine stages in what was to become
known as the Tour of Sicily. The following is a stage by stage account
of their exploits.
Cast of Players
Riders:
Dominic Caravello (Tour
Organiser and Team Leader)
John Buckton (President
Randwick Botany Cycle Club [RBCC])
Rocky Fortuna (RBCC)
David Crampton (RBCC)
Warren Wilson (RBCC)
Michael Miceli (RBCC)
Dale Rockell (RBCC)
Richard Jenkins (RBCC)
Richard Heath (RBCC)
David South (President
Waratah Veteran Cyclists Club)
Carlo Ghisolfi (St George
Cycling Club)
Vinci Caravello (Mechanic)
Wayne Viglione
Support Crew:
.jpg)
Nadia Caravello (Chief
fixer when things go wrong)
Mario Xuereb (Driver)
Giuseppe (Driver/Masseur)
Sue Shavkin (Videographer)
Veronica South (Cheer Squad
Member)
Rose Viglione (Cheer Squad
Member)
Valeria Ghisolfi (Cheer
Squad Member)
Prologue: (71km)
Having experienced Italian
traffic on the drive south from Rome, it was decided that a
familiarisation ride on the day before Stage One was essential.
Accordingly, we threw ourselves on the mercy of the road and hesitantly
set off along the coastal road from our home base at Villafranca towards
Messina. Generally, the roads were surprisingly good - the smooth hot
mix surface was in direct contrast to the harsh gravel that passes for
road surfaces in Australia. The roads got the thumbs up, however we
were stunned and amazed by the antics of the local drivers and scooter
riders in the anything goes traffic environment. In fact, the experience
brought back childhood memories of dodgem cars and carnivals. It didn't
take long however, before we realised that despite their apparent
suicidal approach to driving, the locals actually had very highly
developed driving skills. Missing was the debris and broken glass so
familiar to cyclists on Australian roads; evidence indicating local
drivers mostly avoided crashing into each other. Missing also were the
monster 4x4 urban assault vehicles, road rage and intimidating behaviour
that we consistently experience in Australia. Although the concept of
remaining alert but not alarmed was to remain with us for the duration
of the tour, we felt relatively safe sharing the road.
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
Numerous fishermen were seen coming in along the beautiful
coastal ride |
Rocky thought this was too good to be true and pulled up at a
roadside fish market to check out the catch of the day |
Here's some of the boys stopped on one of the gentle climbs
returning to Villafranca from Messina. |
At the conclusion of the ride came the
mandatory coffee. |
Stage One:
Villafranca Tirrena - Capo D'Orlando: (80km)
This stage started with a
steady, generally flat ride along the north coast through numerous towns
and picturesque fishing villages which would have looked at home in a
travel catalogue. This was certainly a promising start to our adventure
- a sunny day on a winding coastal road with the blue Mediterranean
sparkling on our right in contrast to the steep mountain cliffs,
complete with mysterious ruined castles and ancient fortifications to
our left. We encountered a number of local riders and noted they all
wore cold weather clothing despite the sunny weather. Alarm bells
should have sounded, however we chose to ignore the fact that perhaps
they knew something that we didn't - after all, we were experienced road
warriors from the Great South Land. We continued to hone our bunch
riding skills on Italian roads as we rolled through the stunning coastal
landscape. Although the initial shock was now somewhat diminished, we
were still in awe of the driving habits of the local drivers.
 |
 |
 |
|
The
stunning landscape meant for lots of photo stops. The road
surface was nothing short of amazing. |
One
of the
ancient fortifications along the road. |
Sicily was alive with wild flowers. |
| |
|
|
 |
 |
 |
|
So
what do you think we found along the way - a bike shop of
course. This demanded a stop and the purchase of some bits
and pieces. |
| |
|
|
 |
 |
 |
|
Last climb before
lunch. Up to the church on top of the hill. |
This is what it
looked like up close |
We made it. |
 |
Stage Two: Capo
D'Orlando - Palermo:
(160km)
We set off in brilliant
sunshine, however after about two hours, the weather turned cloudy and
threatened rain. Fortunately this was short lived and to our great
relief, the sunshine returned. We struck a few climbs before reaching
the halfway mark at the picturesque seaside resort town of Cefalu.
Rocky insisted on visiting the ancient Cathedral in the town centre,
using the excuse that it was an opportunity to secure some good
photographs. We strongly suspected the real reason was so that he could
attend a private prayer session having seen the climb that awaited us on
the road out of town. We survived that climb and regrettably his
prayers remained unanswered for the remainder of the stage. With about
50 kilometres left to travel, we entered the ancient walled town of
Termini Imerese where we decided to check our bearings. When Dominic,
our fearless leader, asked a group of locals for directions, they smiled
amongst themselves as they gestured towards a road that climbed almost
vertically to the town centre. At the top was a set of stone stairs
that almost certainly provided inspiration for the classic song
"Stairway to Heaven". We mumbled something about Rocky and his lack of
influence back at the Cathedral, thanked the locals who were by now
openly laughing, and pressed onward and upward. Having negotiated the
initial climb, we were relieved that we didn't have to actually ride up
the stairs but were able to take a side road that proved to be almost as
steep. We somehow managed to summit in the town centre without
wrenching the handlebars from our bikes. Eventually, with 160
kilometres in our legs, we reached our destination of Palermo just in
time to experience the afternoon peak hour traffic - Italian style.
This was not an exercise for the faint hearted, however we employed our
newly developed traffic skills and somehow reached our hotel without
taking any casualties.
 |
 |
 |
|
Everyone was in high
spirits as we left Hotel Il Mulino Capo D'Orlando for a 160km
stage. |
Halfway at Cefalu
with its bustling narrow streets. |
Watch out of the
way, here come the Aussies !! |
| |
|
|
 |
 |
 |
|
And
now for some more cobble stone roads. |
We
reach the half way mark at Cefalu town centre. |
Time
for lunch and a bit of "Carbo-loading" for the next 80km.
Dale and John enjoy lunch. |
 |
|
The Cefalu town centre with the
Cefalu Cathedral in the background.
The cathedral
built by the Normans in 1311 is considered as one of the great
churches of southern Europe. |
| |
|
|
 |
 |
 |
|
It
wasn't long till we were on the coast road again with yet more
ancient fortifications perched over the Mediterranean |
John
takes a break |
Our
trusty support vehicle with
Giuseppe at the wheel, Sue as English
translator and Vincenzo Caravello (Tour Mechanic) |
| |
|
|
 |
 |
 |
|
Wasn't long before
the race course like bitumen and the sweeping coast corners
got the better of Dave Crampton and he did yet another of his
attacks. Again doomed to failure as we chased him down,
however in doing so, we split the bunch. After about 15k's
of hard riding, we stopped to wait for the others.
|
The rest of the
bunch were held up at a railway crossing. |
| |
|
|
 |
| Finally after
160kms of riding we reached Palermo |
Stage Three: Palermo -
Trapani:
(112km)
We now headed inland to
test ourselves on a few more serious, longer climbs before turning
towards the west-coast town of Trapani. Again, the weather was kind to
us and the antics of the local drivers continued to occupy our
attention. As this was proving to be a generally uneventful stage,
Wayne took it upon himself to liven up proceedings with a graphic
demonstration on how to negotiate a railway crossing. Unfortunately
Wayne's demonstration was flawed, and as he dusted himself off and
checked himself and his bike for damage, we all agreed that although
very entertaining, a short explanation would have been less painful for
him. Fortunately, Wayne was able to rejoin the bunch after some minor
first aid. We then headed back towards the coast and finally reached
Trapani just in time to gain more experience in the art of staying alive
in Italian peak hour traffic as we searched out our hotel.
The boys prepare for the hills. |
 |
 |
 |
|
Wayne dusts himself off. |
Warren checks
the route. |
Lunch break.
|
|
The view from the lunch stop. |
Stage Four: Trapani -
Selinunte:
(122km)
Although another hot sunny
start to the ride, we were soon to appreciate just why those local
riders always wore cold weather clothing. After a 25 kilometre flat
coastal ride to Marsala, we again headed inland to turn our attention to
some serious mountains. To date, the climbs although steep had been
short. However we now faced our first real challenge of the tour - a 15
kilometre climb into the town of Salemi. As the road went up, the rain
came down in torrents and the temperature plummeted. The initial 15
kilometre climb to Salemi was followed by a dangerous, slippery descent
before a further 10 kilometre climb in freezing rain to the mountain
town of Santa Ninfa. By now we were thoroughly soaked and shivering.
The sound of chattering teeth was a clear indication that the local
riders did indeed know something that we didn't. Although the damage
was already done, we belatedly donned warmer clothing for the final 20
kilometre descent from Santa Ninfa to our overnight location in the
southern coastal town of Selinunte. Fortunately, the rain eased as we
descended from the mountains, however the wind chill during this final
descent sapped any remaining warmth from the shivering bunch. We
naturally used this as an excuse when we realised we had overshot the
turn-off to our hotel by 15 kilometres. When we stopped to check our
bearings, David Crampton succumbed to the cold. We believe he was
bluffing, however he claimed hypothermia as he abandoned and sought
refuge in the support vehicle. This was in direct contradiction to
David's assertion during the planning phase of the tour that he would
never, under any circumstances, retire to the support vehicle. As the
remainder of the wet and cold bunch backtracked 15 kilometres to the
hotel, David was last seen in the vehicle, teeth still chattering but
safe in the arms of his partner Sue. Later, whilst David soaked in a
warm hotel bath, Sue was seen washing and preparing his bike for the
next stage. The cold had obviously sapped his pride along with his body
temperature. It was noted that Sue, also our videographer, failed to
film this shameful episode of David's life. He subsequently had a lot
of scrapping and bowing to do in order to regain the respect of his more
hardy comrades who stayed the course. We were now nearing the halfway
point of the tour and were looking forward to tomorrow's rest day.
 |
 |
 |
|
Dave Crampton
muscles-up.....before the rain! |
Oh! Oh! Dark clouds. |
And down it came. |
Stage Five: Selinunte - Agrigento: (119km)
After the previous wet
stage and a well earned rest day, we set off in sunny weather to again
experience whatever the road had to offer. We hugged the south coast
for about 50 kilometres before turning inland to again challenge the
hills. We started to congratulate ourselves after easily negotiating a
few lesser climbs until we turned onto the road that leads to the
mountain top town of Raffadali. Our bravado was both premature and
short-lived. Although relatively short, the climb was steep - obviously
to test the resolve of long ago armies that sought to invade the town.
We were in no doubt it would test us also as we engaged our lowest gears
and commenced to climb. Although it has often been said that the view
after a climb makes it all worthwhile, we remain to be convinced after
the climb to Raffadali. After the mandatory photo session, we commenced
the almost 20 kilometre descent to our overnight stop in the southern
coastal town of Agrigento. It was during this long, high speed descent
that Dale decided that it was his turn to contribute to the saga by
challenging a bee to enter his helmet and sting him on the scalp. The
bee accepted the challenge and Dale was forced to demonstrate his
considerable bike handling skills by simultaneously flapping his arms
around, removing his helmet and coming to a rapid stop - all without
crashing. We eventually reached our hotel in time to enable us to visit
the ancient ruins of the nearby Valley of the Temples. Although we tried
to push it from our minds, we knew we would eventually have to face the
climb to Mount Etna. Tomorrow we would head inland towards the ragged
mountain range that we had deliberately ignored for the past week.
 |
 |
 |
| John, Dom &
Warren check the route. |
We are
here..... and we need to be there. |
Yet another climb out of
town. |
| |
|
|
|
 |
 |
|
Off to the next
town. |
Waiting for the back
markers. |
|
Stage Six: Agrigento -
Piazza Armerina:
(118km)
We set off in sunny but
cool weather towards the distant mountains with a steady 35 kilometre
climb to Caltanissetta. On the outskirts of town, Dominic sought
guidance from a local rider as we found we again needed to check our
bearings. Our local rider smiled as he suggested an alternative to our
planned route. He reassured us that despite a few hills, it would be a
satisfying ride as it was one of his favourites. We accepted his
advice, however alarm bells started to ring immediately as we set off on
a long winding descent into a deep valley to where an ancient stone
bridge crossed a river. All cyclists instinctively know what follows
such glorious descents and it soon became apparent why our local rider
had been smiling at us as we contemplated the inevitable climb out of
the valley. Halfway up, a goat herder provided an excuse for John to
stop and test his digital camera on some local colour. This also
provided a much needed opportunity for Warren to take a break as he
appeared about ready to wobble to a stop and roll backward into the
valley. Although hilly, the route proved to be manageable and took us
through some magnificent rural farming areas. A tired bunch eventually
rolled into the overnight location knowing that Mount Etna was on
tomorrow's agenda. We consulted the map over dinner and after much
sucking of teeth and raising of eyebrows, it was mutually agreed that an
early night was in order.
Stage Seven: Piazza
Armerina - Giardini Naxos:
(165km)
The planned route for this
stage was daunting. This, the longest and probably most demanding stage
of the tour, was to take us from the centre of the island, over three
huge climbs, part-way up and around the north-west side of Mount Etna
and eventually down to the eastern seaside town of Giardini Naxos.
Hotel staff and guests watched in disbelief as the bunch ate it's way
through an enormous breakfast before setting off in fine, sunny
weather. Spirits were high and the kilometres rolled easily beneath our
wheels as we cycled through the beauty of rural Sicily. The scenery was
breathtaking - each bend in the road revealed yet another postcard
landscape of distant hills, deep valleys and endless blue sky. This was
the Sicily we had travelled so far to experience, however we knew what
awaited us over the horizon. Eventually we plunged into the dark of a
long road tunnel and the sinister theme music from the movie "Jaws"
seemed to envelop the bunch. As we burst from the tunnel, we saw for
the first time, the smoking, snow capped volcano known as Mount Etna.
As we approached, the sheer size of the mountain was overwhelming. At
3,500 metres, Mt Etna is the highest active volcano in Europe.
Courageously, the bunch attacked the two monster climbs topped by the
twin towns of Centuripe and Adriano which, separated by a deep valley,
stood like sentinels before the mountain. Flushed with success, we
quickly regrouped then mounted an assault against the final climb that
would take us through the cobbled streets of Bronte and finally on to
the town of Maletto, perched high on a plateau on the side of the
mountain. At just on 1,000 metres, this was our highest elevation to
date. During the final climb, Dale capitulated and held the side of the
support vehicle to be towed until he recovered sufficiently to rejoin
the attack. He got away with this indiscretion as we were simply too
exhausted to reprimand him. The bunch finally reached Maletto,
regrouped again and prepared to take revenge on the mountain. It was
payback time as we unleashed our aluminium and carbon fibre weapons and
soared down the almost 50 kilometre descent to the sea. Ruined
fortifications and the ancient lava towns of Randazzo and Francavilla
rose up only to disappear in our wake. We finally swept into the
seaside resort town of Giardini Naxos to the imagined cheering of the
crowds. It had been a memorable day, however our elation was tempered
by the knowledge that after tomorrow's well deserved rest day, we were
going to take the mountain on for the second time. Only this time we
wouldn't sneak around the back, but would attack it head on.
Stage Eight: Giardini
Naxos - Mt Etna - Giardini Naxos:
(84km)
Despite it trying to hide
itself in the clouds during our rest day, we knew that Mount Etna waited
as if in ambush for us. On the morning of what felt like the day of
reckoning, we wasted as much time as possible consulting maps, checking
tire pressures, packing extra energy bars and providing much needed
encouragement to each other. We could delay our departure no longer and
after some last minute group photos, waved farewell to our support crew
and set off on what our fearless leader airily described as a day trip
to Mount Etna. The first few kilometres took us along the coast before
we turned inland to immediately commence climbing. We toiled steadily
upward through the towns of Piedimonte Etneo which, translated, means
"foot of the mountain" and Linguaglossa. We climbed from sun drenched
coastal plains, through open rural farmland, lush green pine forests,
and eventually into the mist shrouded lava fields high on the side of
the mountain. In all, we laboured upwards over varying gradients for
more than 30 continuous kilometres to finally reach our objective - the
snow line at 1,700 metres. It has often been said that age, experience
and cunning will always defeat youth and enthusiasm. Our youngest
rider, Richard Heath quickly disproved that theory as he powered up the
mountain to be first to arrive at our misty rendezvous point. One by
one, the other members of the bunch arrived in varying states of
exhaustion. Rocky and Warren worked particularly hard in a joint
attempt to suck all available oxygen from the mountainside as they
contested last place. At this altitude it was bitterly cold so we took
a lead from the local riders we had earlier encountered and donned warm
clothing for the almost 40 kilometre descent. We swept down the
mountain for the second time - the swirling mist forming ice on our
bikes. We continued our downward spiral to where we knew the sunshine
and blue Mediterranean waited. After what seemed only minutes, we broke
from the clouds and eventually levelled out on the coastal plain.
Having survived our second attack on the mountain, we felt justified in
immediately claiming the reward that cyclist the world over covert -
coffee, Italian style in this case, at a roadside coffee shop on a sunny
day. We never did defeat the mountain, however we felt that we had at
least de-mystified it having now been up and down twice in three days.
As we made our way back to our hotel in the now familiar chaos of peak
hour traffic, we couldn't help but observe that the hills around Sydney
would never again present quite the same challenge.
Stage Nine: Giardini
Naxos - Villafranca Tirrena:
(96km)
By now we regarded
ourselves as seasoned road warriors. Our intrepid bunch remained intact
despite all that Sicily could throw at it. We had braved chaotic peak
hour traffic, cobbled roads in ancient towns, monster climbs, freezing
rain and worst of all, poor coffee in tourist resorts. As we set off,
we regarded this final stage as a mere formality. We confidently
threaded our way through the traffic of Messina paying scant regard to
the now familiar suicidal antics of the local drivers. We pressed on,
under sunny skies with the blue Mediterranean again sparkling on our
right shoulder. We had only 25 kilometres remaining as we headed back
along the road where we had taken our first tentative pedal strokes many
days ago, when it happened. Michael clipped the rear wheel of the rider
in front and fell heavily. To date, the road had been kind to us,
however this time it was not to be. Michael had shattered his elbow -
his tour prematurely cut short. We could scarcely believe his
misfortune and could only wish him well as he was evacuated to hospital
in the support vehicle. We had travelled only another five kilometres
when suddenly, unbelievably we suffered our second real casualty. David
South sustained serious facial injuries and all but destroyed his bike when he collided with a large
industrial waste bin that was lurking on the edge of the road.
Incredibly, having completed more than 1,100 kilometres and almost
within sight of our final destination, two of our comrades lay wounded
in hospital. Understandably, we were stunned by this turn
of events as the now depleted bunch finally reached what was our
original start point in the town of Villafranca Tirrena.
 |
 |
 |
| All smiles at
the start of the final stage. |
Taking in the scenery on the final stage. |
| |
|
|
 |
 |
 |
|
Michael's tour is cut short. |
The
offending bin. |
The final coffee
stop. |
|
Conclusion
As we reflected on the
events of the previous 12 days we agreed that the tour was one of the
more memorable and enjoyable cycling activities we had been involved
in. It's rare to have the opportunity to share the passion of cycling
with a great team on the unfamiliar roads of a foreign country. The
daily routine of breakfasting together, preparing bikes and setting off
not knowing what the road had to offer was in direct contrast to the
often rushed morning ride dovetailed into the normal work day
back in Sydney. Regrettably, all too soon our tour was over and despite
the unfortunate incidents of the final stage, we all agreed that the
Tour of Sicily had indeed been an excellent adventure.
_small.JPG) |
_small.JPG) |
| Boys enjoy the
first rest day at Selinunte |
Giardini Naxos - rest day
2. |
| |
|
_small.JPG) |
_small.JPG) |
| Mt Etna lurking
in the clouds during rest day 2. |
|
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
.JPG)
